Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Climbing Frankenjura

This past two weekends, I have been out with friends to the Frankenjura - Germany's top climbing area. There are ~9000 routes on ~900 cliffs, located in the forests in Franken/Bavaria. It's the place where modern sport climbing developed in Germany, with the invention of the red point system by Kurt Albert, and the famous route 'action directe' by Wolfgang Guellich. Lots of history but most important awesome rock - solid, sharp limestone with lots of pockets. It's very scenic there, rolling hills covered in forest, the cliffs can be directly at the road, or with a short access inside the forest.
The first weekend, Arthus, Christine's puppy, kept us entertained by howling all day, as soon as she got two meters away from the ground, and jumping around energetically. I wish he could have transferred some energy to me! We started on a cliff with 30sec access...it was a bit busy, but we managed to put in some routes. The next area we had for ourselves. We were on a shady cliff, close to a cemetery which is convenient to wash your hands afterwards....At night, we camped at a campsite this time; for Arthus it was the first time in a tent. It got a bit too warm inside the tent for me, so I was happy to sleep outside the following weekend. And being camping, I am finally allowing myself to have Nutella again :) On sunday, we had another full day of climbing, and a nice area to start with. The rock is often so sharp, that the 2nd day is very hard on your skin! The question is, how to get stronger skin (and fingers)....?
The next weekend, Adam asked me if I'd join again - for sure! The weather was great, sunshine, a bit hot, great rock, lots of routes climbed, painful fingers and skin - a great time.

Here are a few pictures from Christine:

the first route

last cliff for saturday with my favourite 'sunset boulevard'

sunday morning: great route with sharp rock

fingerholes...

I am infected....next weekend I have to take a break 'cause my mom is coming to town ....but the again :D

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